Beishan Village in Northern Zhuhai, Guangdong Province

After meandering through the streets of Hetoupu Village in northern Zhuhai, I walked further along the road that brought me there after my random bus ride. Soon I came upon nearby Beishan Village (北山村). Although I saw more people than in Hetoupu, it was also mostly quiet on that hot Saturday afternoon.

Yet again, I do not have any historical details to share and this may be the first post in English about a village I have visited. Some enterprising readers (or Zhuhai experts) may be quick to point out a variety of information about Beishan Village online such as here or here. I would simply point out that those pages are about a Beishan Village in Zhuhai far away (map) from where I was (map). Especially for its rich historical architecture and its art & jazz festivals, the other Beishan Village is an occasional destination for tourists, especially those from Hong Kong, Macau, and Guangdong (article in Traditional Chinese). What most surprises me is its location in Zhuhai -- within easy walking distance from where I explored in Nanping Town after another random bus ride earlier this year. Just goes to show there is always more to find...

I hope I have the opportunity to visit the more famous Beishan someday. Nonetheless, I feel lucky to have found the other Beishan. I probably enjoyed roaming its small lanes and alleys all the more because of its relative anonymity. Like before, I will share photos mostly of the older buildings I saw, though some will include more modern buildings to provide a hint of how things are slowly changing.

Hetoupu Villiage in Zhuhai, Guangdong Province

Hetoupu (河头埔) was the first village I came across during my walk after a recent random bus ride that took me to northern Zhuhai. As far as I can tell, Hetoupu has not received much attention. In fact, this may be the first blog post in English to ever mention it.

On that Saturday afternoon I did not see many people about -- possibly due to the hot weather and intense sun. Although a small spiritual offering, a pair of friendly locals, a large spider, and one of the neighborhood dogs are included in the following photos, most capture disappearing styles of architecture that now coexist with more modern (and some would say more mundane) buildings. I have no idea how much longer the older buildings may last and wish I could provide some commentary on their history. The least I can do is to "preserve" and share some of them here.

Another Random Bus Ride in Zhuhai

It had been a while since my previous random bus ride, so I decided to take another one during a more recent stay in Zhuhai, Guangdong province.

On a bus for line 10 in Zhuhai

Once again, I did not know where the bus was headed. This time I decided to stay on the bus until its final stop, which happened to be about an hour away:

Bus station in northern Zhuhai near the border with the city of Zhongshan

Although bus stations can have their own wonders, a few villages the bus had earlier passed seemed to hold more promise. So I headed back down the road by foot:

Provincial Road 111 in Zhuhai

As I began, a pedestrian overpass helped me better appreciate a nearby highway:

On the left is the Zhuhai Branch of the Guang'ao Expressway

Soon, the road I was walking on veered off in a different direction from the highway. In several upcoming posts I will share some of what I saw at two villages I explored later that day. Yet again, taking a random trip proved to be rather rewarding.

Some S&M While Shopping in Shenzhen

At Shenzhen's Dongmen shopping area I saw a variety of people. Some of those people particularly caught my attention, whether because of how they were cutting metal or selling cucumber slicers. However, most did not receive any second glances from other passersby. But one person I saw definitely caused a number of second (and third) glances:

I have seen many things in China, but I had never before seen someone strolling around a shopping area while apparently advocating sadomasochism -- as evidenced by his outfit and the letters shaved out of his hair. The attention he received seemed to be exactly what he was hoping for:

The prominent sign on his back includes the name 芙蓉面姐 along with what is presumably his number on QQ, a popular online service in China for social networking and more.

Several of my Chinese friends did not recognize him. But after a quick online search I am confident there is a story worth telling. Much is still fuzzy to me, though, so I will just mention that he seems to have made appearances elsewhere, whether at a sex culture festival in nearby Foshan or at another shopping district in far-away Shenyang. Also, his name's similarity to an earlier Internet sensation in China, 芙蓉姐姐 (Sister Lotus), is hard not to notice.

For now, that is all. I may share more later if I hear from anyone who has anything to add about this intriguing example of individual expression in China.

Android Shirts and Samsung Sales at a Store in Shenzhen

One day at Shenzhen's Dongmen shopping area two young men walked by with shirts I could not help noticing:



Their blue shirts reminded me of the shirts worn by employees at Apple Stores, except the Apple logo was replaced with Android logos. I wondered if it was possible they worked at a store that might rival the Android store I found in nearby Zhuhai. After a brief chat, they happily pointed me in the right direction to find it.

Although the store proved to be ordinary (for China) in most respects and sold a variety of phones, I was mildly surprised to see that not everyone was wearing an Android shirt. Some of the employees wore similar shirts with an Apple logo similar (if not identical) to those seen at Apple Stores -- not the first time I have seen that in China.

I proceeded to have a in-depth conversation with one of the store managers who opened up on a variety of topics. One issue I found notable was that this manager thought some of the Nokia phones they were selling, such as the N9, ran Windows Phone 8. However, the N9 and the other Nokias available at the store ran other operating systems. I suspect his confusion is a sign of deeper issues, but I will refrain from saying more at this point.

I also found it interesting to hear his account of the store's sales and why he thought various models sold better than others. The biggest nugget in it all was that their best seller was Samsung smartphones running Android. Given what I had recently seen elsewhere in China and reports of Samsung's current strength in China, this did not come as a surprise.

So, the store seems to be another sign of good news for Google in China's dynamic mobile phone market. And like the Android store in Zhuhai, maybe the shirts can provide some inspiration as well. Though Google might prefer a different color.

Luxury Shopping in Shenzhen at the MixC

The MixC is Shenzhen's largest shopping mall and includes a number of stores for well-known luxury brands. It also includes Shenzhen's largest movie theater, an Olympic sized indoor ice skating rink, and a high-end supermarket with a variety of international foods. Unlike the Dongmen shopping area, what the MixC offers is nowhere near what the vast majority of people in China see or can afford when they go shopping. Nevertheless, the MixC and several other malls in Shenzhen represent the recent growth in the demand for luxury goods in a number of cities in China.

A visit to the MixC provides a different perspective from what is often found in reports of China's failed malls, in particular the world's largest but mostly empty mall in nearby Dongguan. I have seen my fair share of malls in China with floors of empty retail space, and I later I will share my thoughts on what they may and may not represent. For now, I will share some photos I took at the MixC, most during a quiet Monday afternoon. Like many malls in China, it is far from empty.

A small portion of the MixC which overpasses a road

Some of the mall's 6 levels

Despite appearances, you can buy shirts here.

The Olympic-sized ice skating rink and a nearby McDonald's

If you like Dior for yourself...

...you can consider Baby Dior and similar brands for your children.

In case purchasing a Rolls Royce is a possibility for you, one is conveniently on display.

Entrance to Shenzhen's largest movie theater

A window display at Louis Vuitton

And when you need a break from shopping...

...there are numerous restaurants to choose from.
This is the simplylife Café Bakery. I can recommend the thin crust pizzas and the chocolate truffle cake.

A Case for Not Reading

Tennis player Andy Murray responded to a number of questions posed by readers of The New York Times. One answer in particular:

Q. Last book you read? (Nimmi Matthew from Calgary)

A. I never read. The paper or anything. I watch a lot of movies, and TV series and stuff. But I never, never read.

caught the attention of James Fallows:

Andy! Say it isn't so! I speak for all your fellow Scots* in saying, Well done at the Olympics, but this is not a plus for ethnic pride. Scots are supposed to be thrifty, freckled, somewhat ornery, and literary. Or at least literate.

Fallows also urged Andy Murray "to hit the books".

Although I am not aware of any Scottish blood in my family, I share the sentiment in encouraging Murray to change his habits. However, my feelings are tempered by wondering why Murray never reads.

During my days of cognitive science research, my main quest was to better understand the functioning of the typical human brain. In this pursuit, I tested a number of people with cognitive deficits -- in short, seeing how something can break can provide clues about how it operates when not broken. Some of the deficits I studied made reading, which requires a complex set of processes, difficult or impossible for a person regardless of any training or level of interest. So it is almost a reflex for me to question whether Murray does not read because he has a cognitive deficit. It is even possible that a deficit exists which has not been identified and Murray is not consciously aware anything is amiss except for lacking a desire to read.

Some may now be asking: "How could someone as talented as Murray have a reading deficit? And if he did have a reading deficit how could it have gone unnoticed, presumably by him, teachers, parents, and others?"

Instead of fully answering these questions, I will share a relevant example that can begin to address them. Michael McCloskey, a professor of cognitive science at Johns Hopkins University*, in a most unexpected manner discovered a person with a fascinating deficit:

To the casual observer, the student seemed absolutely normal. Though she often made mistakes in spelling and math, those were usually ascribed to carelessness. After all, the girl — known here as "AH" to protect her anonymity — was a top student in history at The Johns Hopkins University...

"She approached me one day after a lecture during which I was talking about a patient who had difficulty spelling after a brain-damaging stroke, and she mentioned that she wasn't a very good speller," McCloskey remembered. "I offered to give her the same spelling test I routinely use in research, and was surprised to find that this obviously bright student misspelled nearly half of the words. That was a clue that something was going on here."

McCloskey discovered exactly what was going on through further tests. He said that the student was "startled" to learn about her deficit, but that in the end, it probably helped explain certain challenges she had faced in her life.

According to McCloskey, it was AH's ability to compensate for this deficit that allowed her to be such a successful, high achiever.

More about AH's deficit can be found by visiting the link above. And a much fuller account can be found in McCloskey's book "Visual Reflections: A Perceptual Deficit and Its Implications". What McCloskey discovered about AH's deficit and how she perceived the world is simply incredible.

If Murray has a deficit there is little reason at the moment to think it would be anything nearly as dramatic as AH's. But what I want to emphasize about AH's story is that someone with a profound, yet long unidentified, cognitive deficit could function at a high level, even in some of the areas affected by the impairment. Just as amazing as how cognitive processes can go awry is how the brain can sometimes adapt to them.

Of course, Murray may not have any reading deficits at all, and I am not saying that anyone who does not read has a cognitive deficit. But although I do not advocate the press hounding Murray on this issue, if I had the opportunity I would at least ask Murray a few questions in private. After all, there might be a discovery to be made that may not only surprise me, but Murray as well.


*Disclosure: Michael McCloskey also has another important identifying characteristic: he was my graduate school advisor.

Metal Cutting in Shenzhen

What can you do with one arm behind your back?

At Dongmen in Shenzhen, China

I have seen many similar scenes of metal cutting or welding in China where safety precautions common elsewhere are not always practiced (though I have seen some hints of change in cities such as Shanghai). I am not a metal cutting expert, but I doubt it is wrong to say "don't try this at home". Or really anywhere.

For those who are concerned about my own safety, the above is a cropped version of the photo. I did not get as close as it may suggest. Regardless, such is sometimes the fun of walking the sidewalks of China.