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Thursday, December 20, 2012

Outdoor Cards in Old Shaoxing

It's been one of those unexpectedly "interesting" weeks, and I've had to pull back on posting. But I plan to ramp things back up soon. For now, here is another photo taken in Shaoxing, Zhejiang province:

people playing cards outside of Chinese traditional style homes in Shaoxing, China

Later I will share other scenes from this old neighborhood. They can make it seem all the more striking that this city of over 4 million people just a couple of hours away from Shanghai was once claimed by Symantec to be the malware capital of the world.

Monday, December 17, 2012

Two Speedy Rides in Shaoxing, China

Around 7 this morning I waited for a taxi. I had plenty of time to make it to my destination.

But I waited.

And I waited.

And I saw no available taxis. I realized if I didn't figure something out soon, I would have to make significant changes to my plans.

But then, over the horizon, or actually the hill of a bridge, a possible solution appeared. It wasn't what I had been looking for, but... it might do. So when the driver approached I asked him how long the trip would take.

If he was right, I had a chance. I had no other options, so off we went. After telling him to please hurry, I felt a pang of guilt. But then I considered he probably found this to be a good deal since I had quickly agreed to pay him more than US $1.50--much more than the usual price for this ride.

As he promised, we made it to the station in time. And he didn't even seem out of breath.

So thank you, sir. Your opportune appearance and speedy service ensured I could make it onto another vehicle of speed.

high-speed train arriving at the Shaoxing Train Station in China


Fortunately, I was in a place where you could take a cycle rickshaw to catch a high-speed train.

man with his cycle-ricksha in Shaoxing, China

Sunday, December 16, 2012

A Rural City Scene in Shaoxing

a country-like scene in the middle of Shaoxing, Zhejiang province, China

After taking a peak through an open door in a park's back wall yesterday, I saw the above in Shaoxing, Zhejiang province. The park and this scene both felt like another world from the denser parts of the city nearby.

More on Shaoxing and other topics soon. I have some catching up to do, especially since I will be on yet another high-speed train tomorrow. Fortunately, the ride should provide an opportunity to get some more work done when I'm not gazing out the window.

Saturday, December 15, 2012

Weapons Matter When Children are Attacked

Students returning to school after lunch on a peaceful day in Ganzhou, Jiangxi province, China

As you may already know, there has been a terrible attack on children at a school:
A man with a knife has wounded 22 children - at least two of them seriously - and an adult at a primary school in central China.

The attack happened at the gate of a school in Chenpeng village in Henan province.

Police arrested a 36-year-old local man at the scene.
It is not the first knife attack at a school in China. And there are worries it won't be the last. As noted on NPR:
"People are saying that this demonstrates their real lack of mental health provisions in China," [Louisa Lim in April 2010] said on All Things Considered. "And also the fact that the social security net has broken down because people are moving around a lot as well. There is a real lack of social and psychological support."
Despite the problems, there is a silver lining. The attackers did not possess guns. Otherwise, China would be even more similar to the U.S. and probably doing more of this and this.

Thursday, December 13, 2012

On the Bus Again in China

Due to some sleep deprivation, yesterday morning I enjoyed some coffee with my tasty xiaolongbao, a style of steamed bun/dumpling* famous in Shanghai.

Starbucks coffee with xiaolongbao in Shanghai
My way of doing "fusion"

Later in the day, I departed Shanghai not by high-speed rail, but by bus, because I hoped I would get to cross the Hangzhou Bay Bridge. However, the bus took another route, and the scenery often included the high-speed rail tracks. Oh well, at least I got to ride shotgun.

view of road and nearby high speed rail tracks from a bus in China
The bus driver was a fan of "proactive honking", a practice I have noticed more often in other regions of China.

One obvious difference from riding the train was stopping at the Xiasha (下沙) travel service center. Unlike the service center I visited on the way to Wuzhou, it did not have a restaurant "inspired" by McDonald's.

Xiasha, Hanghzhou service center
I don't think this experience justifies putting Xiasha on my list of visited places.

After arriving at my hotel in Shaoxing, Zhejiang province, I asked the manager to recommend a place for dinner. He provided one and said I should take a taxi there. But I later discovered that available taxis were not plentiful at the time. So I improvised, and based on an earlier glance at a map I figured heading east would be my best bet to find a worthy restaurant. After walking for 10-15 minutes, I was surprised to see the street mentioned by the hotel manager. And about 5 minutes later I found the recommended restaurant. Sometimes it all works out in the end.

Zhuangyuan Lou Restaurant at night
A good recommendation -- Zhuangyuan Lou Restaurant

In addition to my meal, I enjoyed a bottle of Shaoxing's famous huangjiu or "yellow wine". If you like Manischewitz wine, you might love this stuff.

bottle of huangjiu in China
A good way to celebrate arriving in Shaoxing

As I walked back to my hotel, I watched a bit of night dancing at a public square.

dancing at a square in China
Earlier I saw a large group of older women dancing to American hip hop music.
Unfortunately, it was too dark to record a video.

And that's all for this light travel-bloggish post. I'm still sleep deprived but I hope to resolve that issue now. More later...


*Whether it should be described as a bun or a dumpling can be a deeply religious issue for some people. Perhaps I will touch on this debate of taxonomy and translation another day.

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Ketchup and Oatmeal in the Shanghai Metro

The H. J. Heinz Company and the Quaker Oats Company are both based in the U.S. Not only do they have roots in neighboring states, Pennsylvania and Ohio respectively, but advertisements for their products are currently neighbors at a Shanghai metro station.

Heinz tomato ketchup advertisement in a Shanghai metro station

Just something to ponder...

If this is not fascinating enough for you, more later. It's been a jam-packed few days in Shanghai, and soon I will be off to another part of China.

Another Day of Great Firewall Fun

Since I last commented here on the challenges of using a VPN to "break through" China's Great Firewall, I would say the situation has generally improved (from my perspective) but occasional problems persist. One question I had was whether any of the problems I was experiencing were specific to my location. On that note, after arriving in Shanghai I noticed a nearly identical pattern of problems to those that had creeped up during my last few days in Changsha.

However, the situation was very different today when I went online at a cafe in Shanghai. I could not use my VPN at all. Otherwise, everything seemed "normal" (for China's censored Internet). Since my experience the past 2 days had been especially unproblematic, I wondered if this new VPN problem was somehow specific to the cafe.

Hours later and now at another location in Shanghai, I am not having any problems. But it does not appear I should place the cafe on any sort of blacklist, which is good because I like their food. A quick look at Twitter makes it clear that others in China experienced VPN difficulties during the same time as me.

So what accounts for today's changes? I've seen some speculation, but I'm not going to even try to make a guess right now. I simply share this to provide a taste of some of the challenges and uncertainty one can face when using (and relying on) a personal VPN in China.

Sunday, December 9, 2012

Back in Shanghai

Jing'an Park in Shanghai

My recent trip on high-speed rail brought me to Shanghai. Since arriving, it's been a whirlwind of catching up with friends, meeting new people, and enjoying some of my favorite restaurants--if they're still there. I don't plan to stick around Shanghai for long, so I doubt I will be able to continue my earlier photographic look at Shanghai's diverse areas including Dachang Town (old, less old, and a sidewalk market), southern Hongkou district, northern Jing'an district, and northern Xuhui district. But I have plenty of other posts planned, including more about Changsha--where spending more time than I had planned led to a variety of experiences, discoveries, and insights.

So as always, more is on the way.

Friday, December 7, 2012

On the Rails Again in China

When two months ago I traveled from Shenzhen to Guangzhou, I rode on the fastest class of high-speed rail in China--identified with the letter "G" for long-distance lines or with the letter "C" for lines between nearby cities. When I traveled from Guangzhou to Zhuhai I rode on the slower class of high-speed rail in China--identified with the letter "D". I have also taken many other trips on high-speed rail, such as Beijing to Tianjin, Luoyang to Zhengzhou, and Wuhan to Yueyang on G/C lines and Shenyang to Haerbin, Shangqiu to Xuzhou, and Wenzhou to Xiapu on D lines.

I first revealed my affinity for high-speed rail last year in a guest blog post for James Fallows--"Ride Like You Want to in China". Since then, I have grown to better appreciate the debates over whether it represents a wise investment by the Chinese government and, even if it is, how to resolve problems of safety and corruption. For two related in-depth articles, see "Boss Rail" by Evan Osnos in The New Yorker and "China Advances High-Speed Rail Amid Safety, Corruption Concerns" by Ian Johnson in National Geographic. But regardless of these issues, I have undoubtedly benefitted from high-speed rail. Not only has it enabled me to more quickly and comfortably reach a variety of destinations, but it has encouraged me to see parts of China I may have never visited otherwise.

Yesterday, I continued my high-speed travels and departed Changsha on a D train. As with some other trips, I spotted nearby construction of new high-speed rail lines. In this case, I believe most of what I saw represents what will be the G class Shanghai-Kunming High-Speed Railway. I'll share a few of the photos from yesterday's train ride. Based on the times, they were all taken in the provinces of Jiangxi and Zhejiang. Despite the train window and the train's speed, the photos provide a clear sign of high-speed rail's continued expansion in China, even where "slow" high-speed rail already exists.















Thursday, December 6, 2012

Raising the Arm Mario Style


little boy wearing pants with Mario from Mario Bros. in Changsha, China

Like here and here, what appears to be Mario from Mario Bros. can be found--this time on a boy's pants. I noticed that the boy's arm is raised in a manner similar to Mario's. I have no idea whether it is a coincidence or not.

And I leave you with that great mystery to ponder.

Diversity of Growth in China's Metropolitan Areas

The Brookings Institution recently published its report "Global MetroMonitor 2012: Slowdown, Recovery, and Interdependence". Instead of examining country-wide economic measures, it focuses on metropolitan areas. Why? Because The Brooking Institution believes:
...the economy is not organized at the super-regional or national levels, but rather in the cities and metropolitan areas that make distinctive contributions to global growth and prosperity. now, more than ever, it is essential to examine growth patterns in these places. Because metropolitan areas concentrate national and global population and output, understanding their dynamics crucially informs the broader macroeconomic picture. And grim national outlooks miss the variable performance of metropolitan areas and the clues it provides to the sources of growth and recovery. Some metropolitan economies, in contrast to their countries, defied the slowdown trend with accelerating growth in 2012 or recovered to pre-recession levels.
At least at the moment, I don't plan to share any deep thoughts on the overall report. Instead, I'll just pull out some parts of the report pertaining to China that caught my attention and also comment on a related post on The Economist.

The report especially delves into China in a section titled "The diversity of economic performance of the Chinese metropolitan areas":
The different paths among metro areas worldwide reflect the diversity of growth patterns not only across countries, but also within them, particularly in large urbanizing nations like China...

Nearly one half (22) of major Chinese metropolitan areas grew faster than the national GDP per capita and 25 metro areas expanded their jobs more than the national average. For example, Xiamen, located on the southern coast of China, ranked highest on the 2012 index of economic performance among Chinese metropolitan areas, surpassing national averages on both GDP per capita and employment growth. Aided by large foreign investments, Xiamen’s manufacturing sector output grew more than 9 percent from 2011 to 2012, driving its strong performance.

By contrast, Beijing underperformed China’s GDP per capita growth rate in 2012. the capital city of China saw GDP per capita increase by 2.3 percent, much lower than the nation. Local/non-market services in Beijing delivered over one-third of metro output growth over the past year, and half of new jobs created between 2011 and 2012. The large size of local/non-market services might be a cause of concern for Beijing in the future. As a recent Chinese provincial government study shows, the large size of Beijing’s municipal government led to a drop in its efficiency.
The differences between Xiamen, Beijing, and, as described later in this section, Haerbin seem relevant to understanding China's economic growth. And I have little doubt China's metro areas are much more economically diverse than America's. However, I dont' see how pointing out that nearly half of the Chinese cities had numbers above the national average adds anything meaningful to claims of diversity. Imagine that the numbers of 6 cities in China for some measurement were 59, 59, 59, 61, 61, and 61. Half of the cities are above the average (60). Now imagine if the numbers were 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 210. Only one of cities is above the average (again 60), yet there is more diversity in these numbers than the previous. I could go on with other examples, but my only point is that the number of examples above an average says rather little about the diversity of a set of numbers and often nothing about whether it is more or less diverse than another set.

In an example where China's economic diversity is particularly clear, Macau earned the top spot in the report's economic performance index for the world:
Since its transfer to China, Macau’s economy has developed rapidly, averaging 12.5 percent annual GDP per capita growth and 7.7 percent annual employment growth from 2002 to 2007. The rapid growth of disposable income among Chinese urbanites over the last decade helped drive this growth trend. Gaming is Macau’s main industry, and since the opening of the industry to new investors in 2002, its output doubled and employment grew by 45 percent from 2002 to 2007.
Macau's gambling industry is unique in China, and the difference in its economy from other Chinese cities is somewhat symbolized by the border that separates it from mainland China. As the report later notes, Macau's ability to maintain its strong economic growth likely depends on it diversifying from its current reliance on gaming and tourism.

The Graphic Detail blog on The Economist shared its own visual representation of the "World's fastest and slowest growing metropolitan economies" based on the data provided by Brookings. You can see it here. The top five cities in its two categories jumped out at me:

"Real GDP per person":
  • Hefei
  • Baotou
  • Changchun
  • Anshan
  • Dalian
"Employment":
  • Hangzhou
  • Hefei
  • Ningbo
  • Changsha
  • Shenzhen
All of the cities are in China. The list is personally interesting since I am in Changsha at the moment and have visited all of the other cities except for Baotou and Anshan. More digging into the data or other analyses would be useful in understanding these rankings, though. For example, if a city's population dropped, an increase in Real GDP per person could found even if the Real GDP were static or falling. This city's economic "growth" would be rather different from a city that had a rise in Real GDP per person while also increasing its population.

And that's all, at least for now. If this has left you feeling data hungry, in addition to the report, several possibly relevant appendices can be found here. Or if this talk of economics has you desiring something more spiritual, photos of Chinese temples at the the economic performance index's top performer, Macau, can be found here.

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Another Changsha Bachelor in a Red Bra

Is the young man I saw last week the only bachelor in Changsha, China, to celebrate his upcoming marriage by parading around in a red bra? After tonight I can now answer that question with a definitive "no".

bachelor in Changsha with a painted face and wearing red women's underwear, a red hat, and Chinese flags

The bachelor in the above photo varied the style by wearing a red hat with a symbol for good luck in his marriage, Chinese flags on his back, oranges in his bra, and an attached large carrot. He also carried a portable speaker on his back which allowed him to more loudly proclaim his thoughts. Like the other bachelor, he had a group of comrades supporting his endeavor--one of whom insisted he hold his carrot for this photo. He was attracting a number of onlookers, but at least at this moment, he was not handing out candies or cigarettes.

I'd be curious to know whether the flags most reflect his patriotism, a desire to reduce the chance of interference from anyone who might consider his actions objectionable, or something else. Whatever the case, it's fascinating to see so much "color" being openly displayed in Changsha.