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Monday, February 17, 2014

Sai Yeung Choi Street South in Mong Kok, Hong Kong

With a focus on electronics, cosmetics and clothes, Sai Yeung Choi Street South in Hong Kong's Mong Kok district is at its liveliest when the street is blocked to vehicular traffic and the shopping and entertainment options expand. In the words of Anna Cummins in Time Out Hong Kong:
Walk along the pedestrianised zone of Sai Yeung Choi Street in Mong Kok as evening settles and prepare for all your senses to be smashed – repeatedly. Between the sales reps inexorably blocking your passage with their banners and leaflets, you’re bombarded by sweet and unsavoury smells as fulgent lights blind your eyes. Then there are the political activists who wax lyrical about the state of the world as they stand next to portable amps, which discharge a cacophonous mixture of street karaoke, beatboxing and live pop-rock. When we take our tour down the street, a man, for some reason, is balancing on a Rolla Bolla with a bunch of flowers in his mouth. Nearby, a group of footballers have gathered a sizeable audience as they perform tricks to music. In between the bustle, another guy nonchalantly appears to levitate, drawing a crowd of silent, bemused onlookers.

No matter if you love or loathe the madness, it’s undeniable that Sai Yeung Choi Street’s audacious atmosphere stands out against so many stagnant streets in Hong Kong, which are full of stationary cars and high end swank.
I recall far more savory than unsavory smells in the area and would not characterize Hong Kong as having many stagnant streets, but I agree the pedestrianized Sai Yeung Choi Street South stands out in Hong Kong. As Cummins later explains and the South China Morning Post also earlier reported, catching the experience is harder, because the city reduced the amount of time the street is pedestrianized due to concerns voiced by residents and shop owners. The Standard reported the different viewpoints on how the change will impact business and commercial rents in the area:
Midland IC&I head of research department Jimmy Chan expects leasing activities to fall with the traffic announcement. However, while most analysts forecast retail rents in the area to fall due to declining sales, some shopowners and tenants think differently.

They welcome the new rules as the return of more cars will prevent street performers from attracting crowds and creating a nuisance to potential shoppers.
Whatever the case, on weekends and public holidays the street is still pedestrianized and during several recent visits I found it full of life. With up to 20,000 pedestrians per hour, there are plenty of people to see. Below are photos from there and a few smaller cross streets of pedestrians, sellers, and performers, Rolla Bolla and all. They offer a more expansive look than the several photos from there--street-level advertising, a flash mob, and people posing for a paid photograph--in last year's post about Mong Kok. .

young man holding hands with young woman wearing a medical mask and holding a mobile phone on Sai Yeung Choi Street South

a crowded Sai Yeung Choi Street South

two men playing guitars and singing at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

man selling Captain America figurines at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

bag with a US flag colored Apple logo at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

person in a Japanese style fish costume

young woman playing guitar and singing at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

people at mobile ice cream truck at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

one young man with a Nike back pouch and another wearing a shit with "MARS" on it at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

couple walking at a street near Sai Yeung Choi Street South

man balancing on a Rolla Bolla while also balancing a vase with flowers on his head at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

necklaces for sale at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

young man checking his mobile phone at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

young woman playing an erhu at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

people looking at mobile phone cases for sale at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

young man and woman talking to each other while walking on Sai Yeung Choi Street South

music performance at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

young woman wearing a Bieber shirt looking at items for sale at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

man walking with a woman wearing a "Los Anceles 28" sport team jersey at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

group of female college students having their photo taken at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

young man singing at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

belts for sale at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

young man wear at hat with the word "DRUNKEN" on it and a coat with "HEROISM 69" at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

young man singing and playing guitar at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

boxers for sale at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

skull phones for sale at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

a crowded Sai Yeung Choi Street South

couple with a Muji bag at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

Sichuan style face changing performance at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

man selling stuffed toys at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

stuffed toy cat for sale at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

older man walking at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

two men with guitars performing at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

young man selling watches at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

two young men talking at Sai Yeung Choi Street South

Saturday, February 15, 2014

Valentine's Day Scenes in Hong Kong

Yesterday was not only the last day of the Lunar New Year celebrations, it was also Valentine's Day. Hours after visiting the Kwun Yum Temple, I stopped by Hong Kong's Harbour City Mall which had decorations incorporating both holidays. For a small taste of Valentine's Day, holiday fusion, and the entrepreneurial spirit in Hong Kong, below are Friday evening scenes in an area reaching from a mall entrance to the nearby Star Ferry Pier at Tsim Sha Tsui. The pink lanterns were one of the fusion decorations. See if you can spot at least one other. Some of the sights, such as musical performances and people taking selfies with iconic Hong Kong skyscrapers in the background, could be seen on many other days, but the less common Valentine's Day spirit was unmistakable.

pink lanterns combining the Lunar New Year and Valentine's Day holidays
Over 500 pink and purple lanterns

young couple taking a Valentine's Day selfie
Many were taking Valentine's Day selfies under the lanterns

parents taking a photo of a little girl
Plenty of posing kids

to young women inquiring about purchasing colored flowers which light up
Deciding whether to buy more Valentine's Day items

people selling balloon animals
Enthusiastic ballon sellers

two girls posing for a photo next to a heart balloon sculpture
Posing with a Valentine's Day ballon sculpture for a price

pink Chinese lanterns
More lanterns

two young men laughing while selling balloons
Ballon sellers enjoying themselves

couples taking selfies with the Hong Kong Island skyline in the background
Relatively decent air for a nighttime photo including Hong Kong Island

costumed young woman making large bubbles
One bubble-wand seller repeatedly yelled "Only tonight!"

people selling balloons
More balloons for sale

young man wearing carnival mask selling signs reading 'I miss you' and 'No.1 boy friend'
Masked man selling Valentine's Day flowers and signs

music group performing in front of the Star Ferry Pier
One of the musical performances in the area

young couple holding 'I love you' balloons posing for a photo while a clown watches
Posing with a bunch of balloons before purchasing one from a clown


Finally, although many sellers in the area were targeting couples out for Valentine's Day, some people were trying to give a bit of cheer to everyone for free.

high school girls excitedly holding signs reading 'Hug Me' and "free hugz'
Very outgoing high school students

The Kwun Yum Temple in Hong Kong

On Friday, the last day of the Lunar New Year's celebrations, I visited the Kwun Yum Temple in Hung Hom, Hong Kong:
Kwun Yum or Kwun Sai Yum (觀世音) [has been] known for centuries as a deity of sympathy, compassion and mercy, hearing the pleas of those who are suffering. She is worshipped by people of both the Taoist and Buddhist religions. Kwun Yum in the earlier times was a male divinity, but evolved to be a female deity in Tang Dynasty (唐朝). Arising from a saying that Kwun Yum studied Taoist teachings on lotus blossoms, some Kwun Yum Temples are also called Lin Fa Kung or Palace of Lotus Flower (蓮花宮). Temples dedicated to Kwun Yum are often alternatively known as Shui Yuet Kung or Palace of Water and Moon (水月宮), which stands for all that is quiet and peaceful and detached from the material world.
The inside did feel detached from the world outside. People prayed, made offerings, and had their fortunes told. The scenes especially contrasted with others I saw later in the day regarding a holiday not so detached from the material world--the subject of the next post. But first, below are a few scenes, most of which include incense burning or being lit, from a temple full of people, smoke, and spirit.

people entering Kwun Yum Temple in Hong Hom, Hong Kong

incense coils hanging in Kwun Yum Temple

people lighting incense sticks in Kwun Yum Temple

people lighting incense sticks in Kwun Yum Temple

large incense sticks burning in Kwun Yum Temple

flowers in Kwun Yum Temple

candles burnings in Kwun Yum Temple

people lighting incense sticks in Kwun Yum Temple