A Visit to Foreigners' Street in Chongqing: Part 1, The Entrance to a Land of No Themes

One day earlier this year while visiting an ancient town in Chongqing, I briefly met a college student. After discussing severing interesting places to see elsewhere in Chongqing, she recommended I visit Foreigners' Street. I asked her what made it so popular with foreigners.

She replied, "Oh, there aren't many foreigners there. Maybe a few."

Confused, I asked, "Then why do they call it 'Foreigners' Street'?"

She explained it had originally been planned as a place where foreigners could open restaurants, bars, and other businesses. But things didn't pan out. She struggled to describe what it had become instead but maintained I should visit it.

As I now know, the place is indeed difficult to describe. Richard Macauley wrote about Foreigners' Street, also know as Yangren Jie, for CNN Travel:

Opened in 2006, it includes all the best of what ain’t from China.

Recreations of international landmarks are dotted about, including a miniature New York, Venetian canals, a 10-meter Christ the Redeemer, a 150-meter-long Great Wall of China (not foreign, but it made the cut) and, from Thailand, an exotic dance show.

Yangren Jie is also known for hosting the largest public bathroom in the world, which checks in at 40,000 square meters.

The park is overly kitschy, which either adds to or detracts from the fun, depending on your point of view.

The full piece is worth reading for the varied opinions Macauley collected from visitors. It is one of those places most enjoyed when appreciated for what it is, whatever that may be.

Multiple English translations for the Chinese name of the park, 美心洋人街 , are in use. "Foreigners' Street" seems to be favored by the park itself, though often "Mexin" is placed at the front. Those familiar with Chinese may now be thinking, "You mean 'Meixin', right?". While I agree that would be the correct Pinyin spelling of the first two Chinese characters, the park consistently uses "Mexin". Like with many other things about the park, I don't know why. Anyway, I leave out the word "Mexin", which appears to be common practice for English accounts in both foreign and Chinese sources.

My single visit in January isn't enough to provide a definitive account of Foreigners' Street. At the very least, I wasn't able to see everything. But I can provide a taste of the wonders it holds by sharing what I saw. My account may seem irreverent at times, but deep reverence appears to have no place at Foreigners' Street.

So here we go . . .

To start, the location is not especially convenient to get to from the most urban areas of Chongqing. I can imagine foreigners long ago strongly questioning the logic of opening a business there. But Foreigners' Street lures in the crowds nonetheless.

Upon arrival near the main entrance, my attention was caught by a large structure connected to an apartment complex.

Not sure what to expect, I walked inside and discovered a rather large open space.

A variety of activities were ongoing, including some spirited mahjong games.

For those needing nourishment, some food was available. And not only could you buy baked goods, you could also watch the baking process.

Despite the signs, I didn't see any Gun Night Beer available at the time though.

Back outside, I saw there was chairlift / cable car ride to transport people, presumably into the heart of the park.

5 yuan (about 80 cents U.S.) seemed like a great deal compared to similar rides I had seen elsewhere. And it isn't every day you can ride an aerial lift through a building.

The line for the lift divided people into the "bold" and the "timid". The bold rode in open chairs. The timid rode in enclosed cars. The extremely timid turned around.

On the side of stairs up to the lift, I saw signs declaring "imported". I would have translated the Chinese as "entrance", but "imported" would be appropriate in some contexts and this is Foreigners' Street after all.

For reasons not related to my boldness, I decided to walk into the park and save the lift for my departure. But first I wanted something to eat. Fortunately, several food vendors were nearby and eager for customers.

I chose one of my favorites, a local style of spicy potatoes.

I then passed by the majestic multi-purpose building once more, this time appreciating the outdoor rockers. Some of the people rocking appeared to appreciate my appreciation.

And finally, I stood at the main entrance to the park. Lest there be any doubt about its theme, a prominent sign proclaimed there wasn't one.

I wondered how a park named "Foreigners' Street" could claim not to have a theme. I then pondered the apparent paradox of a lack of theme being a theme itself. I hadn't even entered the park, and already things felt slightly surreal. This feeling did not go away.

In later posts, this themed themeless adventure will continue.

Passing Moments in Shaoyang

At Chengnan Park in Shaoyang, Hunan

A Clarification About Great Ideas for a New Movie

In the previous post I shared photos of two ads for "Mr. Deng Goes to Washington". One ad featured an assortment of guns and knives and the other a cutout of Barack Obama. The post also mentions the movie's focus on Deng Xiaoping's protection during his visit to the U.S. and Chinese media describing an attempt to spray paint Deng as an assassination attempt.

I ended the post with:

One of the questions I am left with after considering the curious use of guns and Obama to promote a film about Deng's historic visit is "If people unfamiliar with the film were presented with only these two advertisements, what would they guess its plot to be and would they want to see it?"

At least they might provide some great ideas for new movies.

I wrote the last sentence without anything much more specific in mind than a) some people may come up with interesting plots, perhaps suitable for action movies, and b) I suspect many of these plots would significantly differ from the advertised movie's. I now appreciate that the post can set up a possible interpretation of the last sentence I did not wish to express or imply. So just in case . . . To be absolutely clear, I was not at all suggesting that a movie about the assassination of Barack Obama would be a great idea.

Now on to other matters . . .

Guns, Knives, and Barack Obama: Promoting "Mr. Deng Goes to Washington" in China

The historical documentary "Mr. Deng Goes to Washington" opened last month in Chinese theaters. The Telegraph summarized the movie and mentioned one of the film's more unusual aspects:

The film tells the story of Deng's nine-day visit to the US in 1979, only a month after China established diplomatic relations with the US for the first time after the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949.

Telling stories of Chinese leaders through animation is very rare in China, but Mr Deng Goes to Washington interweaves historical footage, interviews and animated images of Deng.

In a piece on Sinosphere describing challenges the independently produced documentary faced in gaining Chinese government approval, Amy Qin highlighted other details:

The film, which cost $4 million to make, features interviews with important figures on the American side such as President Jimmy Carter; Mr. Carter’s national security adviser, Zbigniew Brzezinski; and Henry A. Kissinger, national security adviser under President Richard M. Nixon who helped broker the 1972 summit meeting among Mr. Nixon, Premier Zhou Enlai and Mao Zedong that paved the way for Mr. Deng’s visit.

By weaving together interviews and footage of Mr. Deng’s visit, much of which was purchased from American media networks, [director Fu Hongxing] said he wanted to help Chinese audiences understand the importance of that visit to China’s present-day success.

Even if the film now seems intriguing, it could be challenging to make a documentary a big draw at Chinese theaters. Advertisements in movie theaters can offer a window into what aspects of a film marketers think will most capture people's attention and encourage them to purchase a ticket. So with all this in mind . . .

Here is a poster I saw for the film at a movie theater in Changsha:

The numerous guns and knives aren't what I would expect based on the above descriptions of the movie, but they may reflect Qin's observation that the film "places equal, if not greater, emphasis on Deng’s personal security during his visit as on the content of his meetings and discussions with American leaders." And in The Financial Times Lucy Hornsby shares examples of Chinese media describing an attack on Deng shown in the film as an assassination attempt.

But Hornsby adds a small detail which complicates that story:

In fact, Mr Deng was approached in a hotel lobby by a white supremacist who planned to spray him with red spray paint. The would-be assailant was punched by a member of Mr Deng’s secret service detail.

In other words, the world was ever so close to there now being a documentary titled "Mr. Deng Leaves Washington Redder".

The above poster hasn't been the only advertisement for the film I have seen in a theater. Just over a week before the film's opening day, in Xiangtan, another city in Hunan, I saw one which took a significantly different approach. It displayed a nearly life-size cutout of a person well-recognized in China. But it wasn't Deng Xiaoping:

At the time of Deng's visit to the U.S., seventeen year-old Barack Obama probably didn't suspect it would lead to his likeness someday standing in a Hunan movie theater.

One of the questions I am left with after considering the curious use of guns and Obama to promote a film about Deng's historic visit is "If people unfamiliar with the film were presented with only these two advertisements, what would they guess its plot to be and would they want to see it?"

At least they might provide some great ideas for new movies.*


*Added note: I wrote this sentence without anything much more specific in mind than a) some people may come up with interesting plots, perhaps suitable for action movies, and b) I suspect many of these plots would significantly differ from the advertised movie's. After rereading the post, I now appreciate there is another possible interpretation of the sentence, and it is one I did not wish to express or imply. So to be absolutely clear, I am not at all suggesting there should be a movie about the assassination of Barack Obama or that such a movie would be a great idea.

A Red Rest in Changsha

The sculpture didn't offer a conventional sitting area as some others do in Changsha, but two boys with a toy gun were still able to find a way to take a rest on it as Colonel Sanders watched from a distance.

On The Side, China Once Obliterated a Weather Satellite

In reporting the opening of a new center in China for monitoring space debris, the Chinese news agency Xinhua pointed out some sources of the potentially dangerous material which hurtles around our planet:

Space debris is generally man-made litter left in space: parts of rocket launchers, inactive satellites and broken remains of past collisions.

More than 300,000 pieces of debris in space are believed to be in orbit, made up of everything from tiny screws and bolts to large parts of rockets, travelling at average speeds of 10 kilometers per second - about 40 times faster than the typical atmospheric aircraft.

At that speed, even the smallest pieces of debris can damage or destroy spacecraft and satellites.

Xinhua did not directly mention one significant source — the testing and use of anti-satellite weapons. But the phrase "past collisions" applies to how the most successful anti-satellite weapons have worked. The omission of details is notable given China's relatively recent contribution in this area as reported in 2007:

The intentional destruction on Jan. 11 of China's Fengyun-1C weather satellite via an anti-satellite (ASAT) device launched by the Chinese has created a mess of fragments fluttering through space.

The satellite's destruction is now being viewed as the most prolific and severe fragmentation in the course of five decades of space operations.

Lobbed into space atop a ballistic missile, the ASAT destroyed the weather-watching satellite that had been orbiting Earth since May 10, 1999. The result was littering Earth orbit with hundreds upon hundreds of various sizes of shrapnel.

Xinhua's choice not to mention China's achievement is unsurprising though. After all, at the time a spokesman for the Chinese defense ministry's foreign affairs department said:

We are not aware of that test. Usually the media writes stories on hearsay evidence, we don't have time to verify such stories.

Two Pieces About June Fourth

Excerpts from two striking personal accounts regarding June 4, 1989, in China:

1. "Truth on Tiananmen — Coming to terms with 1989 as a young Chinese" by Catherine Wang:

All afternoon [on June 4, 2009], I sat in front of my laptop using a VPN to read reports on foreign websites for the first time, and watch videos of what happened twenty years ago, including of the “tank man”. Even the most hard-hearted person would have been shocked at what I saw. With tears in my eyes, I couldn’t stop searching for more images from that night.

I still have the photo from 1998 when I first visited Tiananmen square. I was nine years old, smiling, with PLA soldiers standing behind me. I was so proud of the national emblems everywhere, of the slogan “Long live the PRC” above the gate of the Forbidden City, and of the soldiers with guns which are supposed to protect the nation and its people. But now it all changed. My tears were not just for those who died on June 4th, but also for myself. It hurts when the world you have built up in your mind for twenty years collapses.

2. "Beijing Autumn — My Return to China Three Months After Tiananmen" by Ilaria Maria Sala:

The taxi driver who brought us back to the university kept scolding us for keeping him in the streets at that hour, yet he wanted his fare too badly to refuse us. We got stopped, right at the intersection with Hepingli. A soldier asked us to pull down the windows and stuck his rifle through, before looking in. He withdrew it when he saw my face, and instructed the driver to take the foreigner back safely. My fretting friend was ashen. He never asked me to go dancing again.

Both pieces are well worth reading in full.

A Dragonfly Photobomb in Changsha

Dragonflies have long fascinated me, so I am not bothered by this:

I had noticed the dragonfly darting about today as I looked at the Xiaoxiang Pavilion and Fengyu Bridge at Yuejin Lake, but I didn't expect to capture it in a photo. It almost makes up for the hazy air.

Changsha Graffiti

Chinese and American Fourths Today in Changsha, China

This afternoon in Changsha, Hunan, I saw several things which could bring to mind an historical day on the 4th.

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But of course, today is the 4th of June and not the 4th of July. None of the American-themed items I saw seemed out of the ordinary compared to other days in Changsha anyway.

I didn't see anything related to today's historical importance, though, except something which brought to mind China's ability to create "The People’s Republic of Amnesia".

If you have questions about why the alpaca-like creature triggered such a reaction, I recommend reading an brief piece on China's grass-mud horse. The second photo is especially fitting.

Otherwise, what I saw today most reminded me of what I saw one year ago in Hengyang, Hunan, three years ago in Qinghai, Xining, and four years ago in Chengdu, Sichuan. Not much has recently changed in China regarding this day, but the efforts to silence and forget have spread.

Another Sculpture in Changsha Conducive to Sitting and Photography

The previous post about sculptures of string players and string instruments in Changsha mentioned that some people enjoyed having their photo taken while posing with the smaller sculptures — a common sight in numerous Chinese cities. However, the man in the post's last photo was not posing for a photographic moment but instead was taking advantage of a place to sit afforded by the sculpture. I have recently seen similar examples there and elsewhere nearby, including at the South Huangxing Road Commercial Pedestrian Street where on one occasion I saw a woman using her mobile phone while sitting on a sculpture's small stool.




Another time at the same location, I saw photography practiced in parallel with the more mundane act of sitting.

This raises an issue relevant to the design of public spaces in China: the competing interests between those who wish to use a suitable sculpture for an extended period of time as a place to sit with others who desire to use it more fleetingly for photos. Perhaps if a sufficient number of places to sit existed in the surrounding area, which research for this pedestrian street found to be a common desire, the conflict would arise less often.

Bowless and Stringless Statues in Changsha

Since I broached the topic of string players yesterday, it is an opportune time to mention two statues of string players I have seen in Changsha.

The much larger statue is titled "Liuyang River" and was erected at Furong Square in 2002.

The second statue is at the back of the Kaifu Wanda Plaza shopping center.

I didn't see a name for it.

Both statues caught my eye since the violinists are missing their bows, which would make it rather hard for them to make music given their arm positions. Additionally, the larger violin had no strings and the smaller violin had broken strings. That said, just being statues is a rather significant obstacle to overcome in itself. I can't rule out artistic motivations, but I assume the bows are missing for pragmatic reasons. It doesn't feel the same without a bow though.

Also behind Kaifu Wanda Plaza is a statue sculpture of a stringless harp.

It shows signs it once had strings or something to represent strings. Given the number of people interested in having themselves photographed interacting with it and the nearby violinist statue, I can't say I am surprised by their current state.


Added note: No, the man in the chair is not posing for a photograph. He is simply taking advantage of a place to sit — a common sight for the times I have passed by.